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| Loktak Lake at Sunset - various shapes of Phumdis |
Loktak lake is the first thing that comes to mind when you think Manipur, and it is indeed the Crown jewel of Manipur. It is the largest freshwater lake in North East India. If you are taking a flight to Imphal, even before reaching, you are welcomed by the unique sight of floating green rings in blue water. I was totally mesmerised by the beauty of Loktak lake - you can call it Love at first sight. And even if I were to be blamed for exaggerating, I would call it a ‘wonder of the world’.
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| The first sight of Loktak lake from the flight - mesmerizing |
I spent around 2 days and 2 nights in Loktak. I reached Thanga village in the afternoon, just in time to see the sunset. The clouds gathered just as I was going from Moirang to Thanga, but boy … what a sunset it was… In my host’s words “the sun didn’t set” but the sunset was beautiful even with the clouds… the effects were surreal.
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| Loktak lake at sunset - with some clouds |
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| Had never seen something like this earlier - floating grass... |
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| The colours of sunset at Loktak lake, Manipur |
The next day, I spent the whole day exploring Loktak lake and surroundings. I was quite enchanted with this place, it almost reminded me of Majuli - world’s largest inhabited river island. I usually wake up early to see the sunrise, but it was quite cold and foggy outside, so I chose the snug blanket instead of outdoors. Went for a long boat ride in the morning around 9 am when the fog cleared. It was a small boat which cost 500 INR for the boat, which I shared with another traveller from England. The boat is a narrow rowing boat in which you sit down on a mat and can hardly move. The ride takes around 3 hours and you float on the lake along with the floating biomass... The green coloured rings that I had seen on the lake from the flight were now all around me. The lake was stunning, with absolute silence and just occasional chirping of birds…
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| The serenity of Loktak Lake in the morning, the still water with reflections... |
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| The lake is just too large, with the boat and a few floating Phumdis |
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| A fisherman, catching fish in Loktak Lake |
I learnt that the circular Phumdis are actually created by joining the pieces of floating biomass. This is actually decayed and decomposed matter of plants that aggregates together. The rings form a boundary for a fishing area. Bait is put for the fish and when enough fish come inside the circle, nets are put on the sides to prevent the fish from escaping. The inside circle of the Phumdi is cleaned of the weeds and then the fish are caught with fishing nets. Quite an interesting and elaborate system of fishing…
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| The biomass of a Phumdi |
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| Fishing nets being put up on the boundary of a Phumdi - readying for catching fish |
I was also told that the thickness of floating Phumdi is hardly 2 feet. And that it is possible to walk on them. Walking on the lake on a carpet of biomass... Interesting.... The boat stopped near a circular Phumdi and I got down along with the boatman. As you step on this biomass, you feel like you are riding a wave. You are not walking on firm ground any more. As you step, the water slowly steeps up. I felt I was on the moon.... The boat ride was very calming -no sounds except the gentle splash of the oar.... Saw life on Loktak from close - phumdis being made ready for fishing, fishermen and women catching fish using indigenous methods, people living on floating huts…
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| Walking on a Phumdi - literally on moon , walking on the lake on a carpet of grass !! |
One of the methods used to catch fish was really special, which was used only by women. It involved a lot of patience, concentration and fine balancing. Difficult to explain in words, this little video will help understand the thing better.
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| Just watch the concentration and patience of this woman |
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| Catching fish with just one hand... |
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| Look at the stance of the fisher-woman - and the calf muscles.... |
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| Another favorite picture of a master craftswoman |
Went to see the only floating Homestay in Loktak lake, and was offered tea by the lady of the house. Got to wear a local bamboo hat as well....
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| Floating homestay in Loktak lake |
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| In the boat, wearing a bamboo hat... |
Returned to the homestay for lunch. After lunch I borrowed a two wheeler from my Homestay and went to see Keibul Lamjao national park - the only floating national park in the world!! When seen from atop a view point, it appears like a land mass, as you don't see water in between, but it's just 2 feet of biomass.... And home to Sangai deer (the Manipur deer brow antlered deer), an endangered species and found only in the floating marshy grasslands of Loktak lake. This was declared extinct in 1950, but then a few years later, 6 deer were seen in Keibul Lamjao national Park and since then state government has taken measures to conserve this deer and now the total population stands at more than 60.
On the way to the national park, I crossed small villages doing mainly pisiculture (breeding fish).
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| Reflections... reflections..... and red coloured algae... pretty |
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| Reflections in the clear water |
You can also go to the national park directly from Moirang if you are not staying at Loktak. Or visit Loktak lake and then go to Moirang via Keibul Lamjao if you are on a day trip.The entry for the national park is INR 30 for Indians and 250 for foreigners. You are not allowed inside the national park for obvious reasons - it's all marshy land, so boats take you for a km or so. You see the sangai deer from a view point at the top using binoculars. I was lucky to spot 2 Sangai deer. Don't have a picture as I don't carry a camera with a big zoom lens.
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| Boats taking you in the world's only floating national park |
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| Keibul Lamjao national park - floating land mass |
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| This is where I spotted Sangai deer in Keibul Lamjao National Park |
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| Notice the deer in the centre... I didn't have zoom lens.. |
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| Board at Keibul Lamjao National Park |
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| View point at Keibul Lamjao National Park |
Then I rushed back to the homestay as I wanted to get to the hilltop for the sunset panoramic view of Loktak...Mr. Maipakchao had promised that ‘the sun would definitely set today :D’ It is one of the most beautiful sunsets I have seen....
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| Sunset at Loktak Lake |
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| Phumdis in the warm glow of the setting sun |
Next day I spend a lazy morning, watching birds, the lake and chit chatting with other home stay guests as I was only going to Imphal and there was no hurry. I stopped at Moirang to visit the INA museum.
Moirang points of interest:
Moirang is famous for its World War and Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose related history.
INA Museum: Got a glimpse into activities of INA during the world war, but it is a very small museum, you hardly spend 30 minutes there.
Moirang market: I found the market more interesting... Had local snacks called Paakanam or the Manipuri Pizza (as was explained to me), local Pakoda and some sweet pancake made of millet probably.
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| Women's market in Moirang - selling pancakes, pakodas and other local street food |
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| I savoured these Pakodas, Paakanam |
India Peace Memorial: Locals call it Lokpaching or the the Japanese memorial. It is built in memory of the Japanese martyrs of the World War II by Japanese. The memorial was closed when I got down from the bus. so I jumped the wall to see it :P
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| This memorial has three stones - one for each of the participating armies - Japanese, British and Indian |
Red Hill: again a world war related site. It is named so because the hill turned red with the blood of soldiers from both sides. Is almost a pilgrimage for Japanese tourists to India.
Reaching there and accomodation
The simplest way to go to Loktatk Lake is to hire a taxi / car from Imphal. But if you are backpacking or on a budget (that’s how I travel) - a shared Winger from the Moirang parking near Ima Market takes you to Moirang for INR 60. From there shared autos ply to Thanga village, which is almost an island in the lake. They charge 15 rs per head and stuff 14-15 people in a large auto rickshaw, which is unbelievable, but doesn't feel all that uncomfortable when you actually ride one. There are also people hanging outside… A road in the middle of Loktak lake connects a few villages to the mainland. There's just one Homestay in Thanga village Maipakchao Homestay. Mr Maipakchao is a prominent person in the village and also heads the ecotourism committee there. If you like expensive resorts, you can also stay at the Sendra Resort.
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