A journey to the Jewelled Land - Manipur

The floating biomass on Loktak Lake

I continue my exploration of the North East from last year and after Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, Nagaland, Sikkim and Tripura it is Manipur this time. My trip to this land of jewels (Manipur literally translates to jewelled land) is short this time - only a week - immediately after Christmas. This is probably the only North Eastern state which does not shut down during Christmas. Most blogs that I had read suggested a 4-5 days itinerary for seeing Manipur, but I suggest keeping around 10 days at hand.

The key attractions in Manipur fall under the following circuits or routes :

1. Imphal city - can be seen in one day, more details in a separate write up
2. Moirang, Loktak Lake, Keibul Lamjao National Park, Red Hill, Sadu Chiru waterfall, Bishnupur - many people visit these as a day trip from Imphal, but I would suggest staying in Loktak for  1-2 nights. Ideal would be 3D/2N. More details can be found here. 
3. Mutua museum and cultural complex Andro, Kaina temple - this is also a day trip from Imphal. 
4. Moreh, khongjom War memorial - Moreh is the border town at Indo Burmese border from where one can go to Myanmar and spend a day in Tamu - the Burma side of the town and experience the Burmese culture, shopping. Monasteries… Since September 2018, it is possible to cross over to Myanmar by road from the Moreh border with a valid e-visa, without the hassle of any additional permits. Khongjom War memorial is built to honour the Manipuri heroes who fought against the British in the first Anglo Manipuri war in 1891. 
5. Ukhrul, Sirohi Hills, Khangkui caves - Ukhrul is famous for Khangkui caves - amazing formation of limestone stalactites and stalagmites, and the world famous Sirohi Lily on the Sirohi Hills. These lilies bloom only in the monsoon months, so plan to go there in July or August. 
6. Tharon caves, Tamenglong, Barak waterfall, Zilad Lake - Tharon caves are similar to Khangkui caves, but much bigger. 

Because of holidays during New year and using public transport, I could see only the first three circuits.

Reaching there :

Imphal, the capital of Manipur, is connected by flight to all major cities in India. You can also reach Guwahati or Silchar and take a flight or bus to Imphal from there. The bus journey from Guwahati is quite long, almost 20 hours on bad roads, so if budget permits, you should fly into Imphal. It is an overnight journey from Silchar by bus. If you are coming from neighbouring states of Manipur, you can take a bus or shared sumo, but these are tough journeys on bad roads. I flew to imphal from Mumbai and took the bus to Shillong.

Getting around :

Manipur can be easily explored making Imphal as your base if you want to take public transport as it is almost at the centre. Shared autos and taxis ply on most routes and are really inexpensive, your highest one way fare will be around INR 150. You can save some time on some stretches by hiring a private vehicle if you are in a rush.

Some interesting facts which will want you to visit Manipur :

Manipur is really special and has the distinction of being the only place in the world for the following things:

• Sangai deer or the Brow Antlered deer is a rare species of deer  only found in Manipur in the world. It is the state animal of Manipur.
• World's only floating national park Keibul Lamjao is in Manipur. 
• Manipur has the world's largest market run only by women, almost 500 years old!! It is called Ima Keithel in local language which translated as ‘Mother's market’. 
• Manipur is believed to be the birthplace of polo. According to local claims, Sagol Kangjei was a local Manipuri game which evolved as Polo. World's oldest living Polo ground is in Imphal

Keibul Lamjao National Park - a floating national park

I spotted the Sangai deer here

That's me at Keibul Lamjao National Park - happy on spotting two Sangai deer

Ima Keithel or the Mother's market

Only women run the show in this world famous market

World's oldest living Polo ground , Imphal

History and culture:

• It is the only North Eastern state to have its own distinct script - Meitei
• The history of Manipur dates back to 1500 BC (sounds unbelievable!!) and Imphal has been the capital of Meiti Kings since 1st century AD. 
• Religion : The original Meitis followed Sanamahi religion, worshipping mostly nature and Sanamahi and Pakhangba as local deities The Vaishnav Hinduism  became the state religion since 18th century, however there has been enmass conversion to Christianity in the northern part toward Nagaland and other hilly tribal areas. Which is why now the Hindu and Christian population is equal.
• The traditional dress is Phanek, a sarong like wrap around skirt worn with a blouse and Innaphi, a shawl. There are variations in these depending on the community and the occasion.
• Some Manipuri textiles have a GI tag 
• Manipuri dance is one of the classical dance forms of India and the Rasa Leela from Manipur is quite unique. 

Geography and landscape :

Like Arunachal Pradesh and Mizoram, it also shares its boundary with Myanmar and was an important place on the earlier trade route with South East Asia. Since September 2018, you can also enter Myanmar from the Indo Burmese border at Moreh via land with a valid e-visa and don't need additional permits.

It is surrounded by hills on all sides and has beautiful valleys, hills, fresh water lakes, lime caves in its landscape.

Food:

• Manipur has a really wide range of foods to sample - so much of variety of fresh water fish, meats, variety of bamboo shoots and stem, all sorts of exotic fruits and vegetables. Do try the fruits and local dishes. One of the highly recommended places to try authentic Manipuri cuisine is Luxmi Kitchen near the Ima Market. 
• Fish is an important part of Manipuri cuisine, fermented fish called Ngari is present in the strict vegetarian cuisine of Meitis and Brahmins, even while it is devoid of onion and garlic!!
• So specifically ask for presence of fish in sauces and curries. Luxmi kitchen does serve vegetarian option also. 
• There is a plethora of snack items being sold in the Ima markets in Imphal, Moirang and everywhere else - Laddus made of puffed rice, beaten rice, Paakanam - a Manipuri take on the Pizza - sort of a pancake prepared with a mixture of pea flour, maroi napaakpi (flavoring leaves), laphu tharo (banana flower), awa phadigom (Mexican coriander), and ngari (fermented fish) wrapped in turmeric and banana leaves and baked in a pan or steamed and then roasted for sometime, pakodas made of various plants etc. It's a delight to see these being sold in the local market and taste some of them.
• And last but not the least, black rice and red hot Umorok chilli are specialities of the land. Umorok chilli is used in many sides (aka chutneys) and in the main course as well. It is almost 100 times hotter than a regular chilli and is among the hottest chillies of the world. Chahao Kheer is made with black rice and served as a delicacy in Meiti homes and also in temples as Prasad. Black rice grows only in Manipur!! So try not to miss these…
• I also got to sample the variation in Manipuri style of cooking - use of maroi napaakpi and maroi naakuppi in place of onion and garlic, use of lip smacking Jaggery syrup. But for that you have to be lucky to be staying with a Meitei household.

Types of bamboo shoots...

Colourful wines made of rice and fruits

Paakanam - or the Manipuri Pizza ---yummy

Variety of local snacks in Moirang market

A vegetarian Manipuri Thali  at Luxmi kitchen- notice the black bowl with black rice kheer

Enough reasons to lure you to Manipur? Still thinking about your next holiday destination? Pack your bags to experience this state off the beaten track, to refresh your senses, rejuvenate mind and soul, to experience life in harmony with nature….

And if all this does not interest you, for sheer gastronomic pleasure…..