Manipur diaries - Loktak Lake and around

Loktak Lake at Sunset - various shapes of Phumdis

Loktak lake is the first thing that comes to mind when you think Manipur, and it is indeed the Crown jewel of Manipur. It is the largest freshwater lake in North East India. If you are taking a flight to Imphal, even before reaching, you are welcomed by the unique sight of floating green rings in blue water. I was totally mesmerised by the beauty of Loktak lake - you can call it Love at first sight. And even if I were to be blamed for exaggerating, I would call it a ‘wonder of the world’.

The first sight of Loktak lake from the flight - mesmerizing

I spent around 2 days and 2 nights in Loktak. I reached Thanga village in the afternoon, just in time to see the sunset. The clouds gathered just as I was going from Moirang to Thanga, but boy … what a sunset it was… In my host’s words “the sun didn’t set” but the sunset was beautiful even with the clouds… the effects were surreal.

Loktak lake at sunset - with some clouds

Had never seen something like this earlier - floating grass...

The colours of sunset at Loktak lake, Manipur

The next day, I spent the whole day exploring Loktak lake and surroundings. I was quite enchanted with this place, it almost reminded me of Majuli - world’s largest inhabited river island. I usually wake up early to see the sunrise, but it was quite cold and foggy outside, so I chose the snug blanket instead of outdoors. Went for a long boat ride in the morning around 9 am when the fog cleared. It was a small boat which cost 500 INR for the boat, which I shared with another traveller from England. The boat is a narrow rowing boat in which you sit down on a mat and can hardly move. The ride takes around 3 hours and you float on the lake along with the floating biomass... The green coloured rings that I had seen on the lake from the flight were now all around me. The lake was stunning, with absolute silence and just occasional chirping of birds…

The serenity of Loktak Lake in the morning, the still water with reflections...

The lake is just too large, with the boat and a few floating Phumdis

A fisherman, catching fish in Loktak Lake

I learnt that the circular Phumdis are actually created by joining the pieces of floating biomass. This is actually decayed and decomposed matter of plants that aggregates together. The rings form a boundary for a fishing area. Bait is put for the fish and when enough fish come inside the circle, nets are put on the sides to prevent the fish from escaping. The inside circle of the Phumdi is cleaned of the weeds and then the fish are caught with fishing nets. Quite an interesting and elaborate system of fishing…

The biomass of a Phumdi

Fishing nets being put up on the boundary of a Phumdi - readying for catching fish

I was also told that the thickness of floating Phumdi is hardly 2 feet. And that it is possible to walk on them. Walking on the lake on a carpet of biomass... Interesting.... The boat stopped near a circular Phumdi and I got down along with the boatman. As you step on this biomass, you feel like you are riding a wave. You are not walking on firm ground any more. As you step, the water slowly steeps up. I felt I was on the moon.... The boat ride was very calming -no sounds except the gentle splash of the oar.... Saw life on Loktak from close - phumdis being made ready for fishing, fishermen and women catching fish using indigenous methods, people living on floating huts…

Walking on a Phumdi - literally on moon , walking on the lake on a carpet of grass !!

One of the methods used to catch fish was really special, which was used only by women. It involved a lot of patience, concentration and fine balancing. Difficult to explain in words, this little video will help understand the thing better.

Just watch the concentration and patience of this woman

Catching fish with just one hand...

Look at the stance of the fisher-woman - and the calf muscles....

Another favorite picture of a master craftswoman

Went to see the only floating Homestay in Loktak lake, and was offered tea by the lady of the house. Got to wear a local bamboo hat as well....

Floating homestay in Loktak lake

In the boat, wearing a bamboo hat...

Returned to the homestay for lunch. After lunch I borrowed a two wheeler from my Homestay and went to see Keibul Lamjao national park - the only floating national park in the world!! When seen from atop a view point, it appears like a land mass, as you don't see water in between, but it's just 2 feet of biomass.... And home to Sangai deer (the Manipur deer brow antlered deer), an endangered species and found only in the floating marshy grasslands of Loktak lake. This was declared extinct in 1950, but then a few years later, 6 deer were seen in Keibul Lamjao national Park and since then state government has taken measures to conserve this deer and now the total population stands at more than 60.

On the way to the national park, I crossed small villages doing mainly pisiculture (breeding fish).

Reflections... reflections..... and red coloured algae... pretty

Reflections in the clear water

You can also go to the national park directly from Moirang if you are not staying at Loktak. Or visit Loktak lake and then go to Moirang via Keibul Lamjao if you are on a day trip.The entry for the national park is INR 30 for Indians and 250 for foreigners. You are not allowed inside the national park for obvious reasons - it's all marshy land, so boats take you for a km or so. You see the sangai deer from a view point at the top using binoculars. I was lucky to spot 2 Sangai deer. Don't have a picture as I don't carry a camera with a big zoom lens.

Boats taking you in the world's only floating national park

Keibul Lamjao national park - floating land mass

This is where I spotted Sangai deer in Keibul Lamjao National Park

Notice the deer in the centre... I didn't have zoom lens..

Board at Keibul Lamjao National Park

View point at Keibul Lamjao National Park

Then I rushed back to the homestay as I wanted to get to the hilltop for the sunset panoramic view of Loktak...Mr. Maipakchao had promised that ‘the sun would definitely set today :D’  It is one of the most beautiful sunsets I have seen....

Sunset at Loktak Lake

Sunset at Loktak Lake

Sunset at Loktak Lake

Sunset at Loktak Lake

Phumdis in the warm glow of the setting sun

Sunset at Loktak Lake

Next day I spend a lazy morning, watching birds, the lake and chit chatting with other home stay guests as I was only going to Imphal and there was no hurry. I stopped at Moirang to visit the INA museum.

Moirang points of interest:

Moirang is famous for its World War and Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose related history.

INA Museum: Got a glimpse into activities of INA during the world war, but it is a very small museum, you hardly spend 30 minutes there.

Moirang market: I found the market more interesting... Had local snacks called Paakanam or the Manipuri Pizza (as was explained to me), local Pakoda and some sweet pancake made of millet probably.

Women's market in Moirang - selling pancakes, pakodas and other local street food

I savoured these Pakodas, Paakanam

India Peace Memorial: Locals call it Lokpaching or the the Japanese memorial. It is built in memory of the Japanese martyrs of the World War II by Japanese. The memorial was closed when I got down from the bus. so I jumped the wall to see it :P

This memorial has three stones - one for each of the participating armies - Japanese, British and Indian

Red Hill: again a world war related site. It is named so because the hill turned red with the blood of soldiers from both sides. Is almost a pilgrimage for Japanese tourists to India.

Reaching there and accomodation

The simplest way to go to Loktatk Lake is to hire a taxi / car from Imphal. But if you are backpacking or on a budget (that’s how I travel) - a shared Winger from the Moirang parking near Ima Market takes you to Moirang for INR 60.  From there shared autos ply to Thanga village, which is almost an island in the lake. They charge 15 rs per head and stuff 14-15 people in a large auto rickshaw, which is unbelievable, but doesn't feel all that uncomfortable when you actually ride one. There are also people hanging outside… A road in the middle of Loktak lake connects a few villages to the mainland. There's just one Homestay in Thanga village Maipakchao Homestay. Mr Maipakchao is a prominent person in the village and also heads the ecotourism committee there. If you like expensive resorts, you can also stay at the Sendra Resort.

A journey to the Jewelled Land - Manipur

The floating biomass on Loktak Lake

I continue my exploration of the North East from last year and after Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, Nagaland, Sikkim and Tripura it is Manipur this time. My trip to this land of jewels (Manipur literally translates to jewelled land) is short this time - only a week - immediately after Christmas. This is probably the only North Eastern state which does not shut down during Christmas. Most blogs that I had read suggested a 4-5 days itinerary for seeing Manipur, but I suggest keeping around 10 days at hand.

The key attractions in Manipur fall under the following circuits or routes :

1. Imphal city - can be seen in one day, more details in a separate write up
2. Moirang, Loktak Lake, Keibul Lamjao National Park, Red Hill, Sadu Chiru waterfall, Bishnupur - many people visit these as a day trip from Imphal, but I would suggest staying in Loktak for  1-2 nights. Ideal would be 3D/2N. More details can be found here. 
3. Mutua museum and cultural complex Andro, Kaina temple - this is also a day trip from Imphal. 
4. Moreh, khongjom War memorial - Moreh is the border town at Indo Burmese border from where one can go to Myanmar and spend a day in Tamu - the Burma side of the town and experience the Burmese culture, shopping. Monasteries… Since September 2018, it is possible to cross over to Myanmar by road from the Moreh border with a valid e-visa, without the hassle of any additional permits. Khongjom War memorial is built to honour the Manipuri heroes who fought against the British in the first Anglo Manipuri war in 1891. 
5. Ukhrul, Sirohi Hills, Khangkui caves - Ukhrul is famous for Khangkui caves - amazing formation of limestone stalactites and stalagmites, and the world famous Sirohi Lily on the Sirohi Hills. These lilies bloom only in the monsoon months, so plan to go there in July or August. 
6. Tharon caves, Tamenglong, Barak waterfall, Zilad Lake - Tharon caves are similar to Khangkui caves, but much bigger. 

Because of holidays during New year and using public transport, I could see only the first three circuits.

Reaching there :

Imphal, the capital of Manipur, is connected by flight to all major cities in India. You can also reach Guwahati or Silchar and take a flight or bus to Imphal from there. The bus journey from Guwahati is quite long, almost 20 hours on bad roads, so if budget permits, you should fly into Imphal. It is an overnight journey from Silchar by bus. If you are coming from neighbouring states of Manipur, you can take a bus or shared sumo, but these are tough journeys on bad roads. I flew to imphal from Mumbai and took the bus to Shillong.

Getting around :

Manipur can be easily explored making Imphal as your base if you want to take public transport as it is almost at the centre. Shared autos and taxis ply on most routes and are really inexpensive, your highest one way fare will be around INR 150. You can save some time on some stretches by hiring a private vehicle if you are in a rush.

Some interesting facts which will want you to visit Manipur :

Manipur is really special and has the distinction of being the only place in the world for the following things:

• Sangai deer or the Brow Antlered deer is a rare species of deer  only found in Manipur in the world. It is the state animal of Manipur.
• World's only floating national park Keibul Lamjao is in Manipur. 
• Manipur has the world's largest market run only by women, almost 500 years old!! It is called Ima Keithel in local language which translated as ‘Mother's market’. 
• Manipur is believed to be the birthplace of polo. According to local claims, Sagol Kangjei was a local Manipuri game which evolved as Polo. World's oldest living Polo ground is in Imphal

Keibul Lamjao National Park - a floating national park

I spotted the Sangai deer here

That's me at Keibul Lamjao National Park - happy on spotting two Sangai deer

Ima Keithel or the Mother's market

Only women run the show in this world famous market

World's oldest living Polo ground , Imphal

History and culture:

• It is the only North Eastern state to have its own distinct script - Meitei
• The history of Manipur dates back to 1500 BC (sounds unbelievable!!) and Imphal has been the capital of Meiti Kings since 1st century AD. 
• Religion : The original Meitis followed Sanamahi religion, worshipping mostly nature and Sanamahi and Pakhangba as local deities The Vaishnav Hinduism  became the state religion since 18th century, however there has been enmass conversion to Christianity in the northern part toward Nagaland and other hilly tribal areas. Which is why now the Hindu and Christian population is equal.
• The traditional dress is Phanek, a sarong like wrap around skirt worn with a blouse and Innaphi, a shawl. There are variations in these depending on the community and the occasion.
• Some Manipuri textiles have a GI tag 
• Manipuri dance is one of the classical dance forms of India and the Rasa Leela from Manipur is quite unique. 

Geography and landscape :

Like Arunachal Pradesh and Mizoram, it also shares its boundary with Myanmar and was an important place on the earlier trade route with South East Asia. Since September 2018, you can also enter Myanmar from the Indo Burmese border at Moreh via land with a valid e-visa and don't need additional permits.

It is surrounded by hills on all sides and has beautiful valleys, hills, fresh water lakes, lime caves in its landscape.

Food:

• Manipur has a really wide range of foods to sample - so much of variety of fresh water fish, meats, variety of bamboo shoots and stem, all sorts of exotic fruits and vegetables. Do try the fruits and local dishes. One of the highly recommended places to try authentic Manipuri cuisine is Luxmi Kitchen near the Ima Market. 
• Fish is an important part of Manipuri cuisine, fermented fish called Ngari is present in the strict vegetarian cuisine of Meitis and Brahmins, even while it is devoid of onion and garlic!!
• So specifically ask for presence of fish in sauces and curries. Luxmi kitchen does serve vegetarian option also. 
• There is a plethora of snack items being sold in the Ima markets in Imphal, Moirang and everywhere else - Laddus made of puffed rice, beaten rice, Paakanam - a Manipuri take on the Pizza - sort of a pancake prepared with a mixture of pea flour, maroi napaakpi (flavoring leaves), laphu tharo (banana flower), awa phadigom (Mexican coriander), and ngari (fermented fish) wrapped in turmeric and banana leaves and baked in a pan or steamed and then roasted for sometime, pakodas made of various plants etc. It's a delight to see these being sold in the local market and taste some of them.
• And last but not the least, black rice and red hot Umorok chilli are specialities of the land. Umorok chilli is used in many sides (aka chutneys) and in the main course as well. It is almost 100 times hotter than a regular chilli and is among the hottest chillies of the world. Chahao Kheer is made with black rice and served as a delicacy in Meiti homes and also in temples as Prasad. Black rice grows only in Manipur!! So try not to miss these…
• I also got to sample the variation in Manipuri style of cooking - use of maroi napaakpi and maroi naakuppi in place of onion and garlic, use of lip smacking Jaggery syrup. But for that you have to be lucky to be staying with a Meitei household.

Types of bamboo shoots...

Colourful wines made of rice and fruits

Paakanam - or the Manipuri Pizza ---yummy

Variety of local snacks in Moirang market

A vegetarian Manipuri Thali  at Luxmi kitchen- notice the black bowl with black rice kheer

Enough reasons to lure you to Manipur? Still thinking about your next holiday destination? Pack your bags to experience this state off the beaten track, to refresh your senses, rejuvenate mind and soul, to experience life in harmony with nature….

And if all this does not interest you, for sheer gastronomic pleasure…..