Tripura diaries- part 2: Neermahal -The Lake Palace

Neer Mahal was my second stop in Tripura. I reached Melaghar from Kamala sagar. After Lunch and some rest, I went to the famed Neer Mahal. I wanted to hire a country boat for myself but it was not available, hence went on a motor boat on a seat basis (INR 30). The palace lived up to its reputation.  Made in the traditional Tripura style architecture, in red and white, it spreads majestically in the middle of Rudrasagar lake. Since this palace was made as a summer resort by Maharaja Bir Bikram Radhakishore Manikya, it has dancing rooms, guest rooms, a ghat for boats(yes, you read it right, one could descend into a boat from inside the palace!), garden, an amphitheatre and a hawamahal.  The palace is lit up briefly after sunset for about an hour, but the light and sound show does not happen anymore. I had read earlier blogs about boating in the lake at night to see the illuminated palace, but that is not relevant anymore. So one can even plan a day trip to Neermahal from Agartala.

I stayed at Sagar Mahal tourist lodge for two days and went to Neermahal once again in a privately hired country boat- it's an experience to remember, the silent splashing of water against the oars, the gliding boat, water snakes, floating water hyacinth creating patterns on water and the setting sun painting the sky and lake in magical colours...and the conversation with the boatman to top it all….

Reaching there:

Neermahal is around 50 km from Agartala, so one can plan a day trip from Agartala. You can hire a car or take a bus or shared jeep or Tata Magic to Melaghar. These are available from the Nagerjala bus stand in Agartala. 

Since I was travelling from Kamalasagar, I took a shared jeep (INR 20) to the T junction of road from Kamalasagar and national highway (Rastar matha in local language) and then took a bus to Melaghar. The Sagar Mahal tourist lodge is around 1.5 km from the main road. You can walk or take a shared auto / cycle rickshaw for INR 10.

Accommodation: There is a tourist lodge run by Tripura state tourism, Sagar Mahal tourist lodge, overlooking the lake. I did not see any other hotels in the market.

Tips: Neermahal is a nuisance on weekends as local educational institutes and offices come here for a picnic and their whole idea is to play cheap, irritating music loudly (and this is played in the bus while the groups are away)

Pictures of Neermahal:

Night view of Neermahal

Sunset on Rudra Sagar

The boatman with Neer Mahal in the background 

Tripura diaries- part 1- Kamalasagar - a temple and the Indo-Bangladesh Border Haat

My trip to Kamalasagar starts in a shared Tata Magic and I also pay for my bag! The road condition was very bad, even within Agartala, which later gave way to a Kachcha road. I leaned against my backpack and dozed off. There are a few villages on the way who also use the shared auto as a means of transport. You will pass by paddy fields and rubber and teak plantations as you drive towards Kamalasagar. The houses are made of unbaked clay bricks and plastered further with clay mixed with Lascha flour, which makes them water resistant.

Kamalasagar was a pleasant change from the chaos of Agartala. You can see the temple just as you alight from the bys/car/auto. There are a few shops selling pooja items and Peda for offering the goddess.

The government tourist lodge - Comilla view is located just next to the temple and you can watch the lake and Bangladesh beyond it sitting at the lodge itself or go to its terrace for a better view.

The lake next to the temple is Kamalasagar, from which the place derives its name. The Bangladesh side is called Kasba- the older name still popular for Kamalasagar as well. Even the goddess is called Kasbeshwari.

A friend had advised me to stay overnight in Kamalasagar for its night view, but thats something you can give a miss. You don't see anything additional at night. However if you like spending a day and night in solitude, then this place is for you. There is an evening Aarti in temple which is quite nice, but you can return to Agartala after it if you have a private car.

Comilla view guest House is actually in no man's land - what a feeling to be in no man's land!
The temple and the lake are on Indian land but all three sides are surrounded by Bangladesh. So as you sit looking at the lake, you can see the boundary with Bangladesh.

Another interesting thing for which people from Tripura come to this place is to see a train, yes the ubiquitous train, so commonplace in the Indian subcontinent, but plying in Tripura only since 2013. One can see the Kasba railway station of Bangladesh and trains running there.

Just look at these pictures - hard to believe that it is an international border!

And looking at these the futility of imaginary lines separating people is reinforced. And I was surprised to know that illegal immigration does not happen through this border. I even witnessed Bangladeshi nationals visiting Kamalasagar to meet their relatives and return by showing an identity card.

Kamalasagar India Bangladesh border haat:

The Border Haat is a government initiative to boost the economy of border villages of both countries. There are two in Tripura - one in Srinagar in South tripura and the other one in Kamalasagar. There is a proper concrete structure in place and every Sunday shops are set up by people of Bangladesh as well as India. These shops have special permission.

Since I had missed this unique experience during my stay here, I came back from Melaghar. And ended up travelling an extra 50 minutes as I missed the cut for Kamalasagar, and did not inform the jeep driver in advance (my overconfidence of remembering the route well - actually I dozed off 😋)

There is a long queue to obtain permission to visit the border haat. Any government issued photo id is enough to obtain permission. It took me almost an hour to get the permit.

The permission slip for which I stood in a queue for an hour

Do not carry any camera or computers, they are not allowed inside and there's no locker facility available. I requested the female BSF jawan to keep my bag at the security check post. Since I told her I am travelling alone and cannot go back all the way to Melaghar, she obliged.

The atmosphere in the haat is like a carnival.

The shops on the left are from India and the ones on right are from Bangladesh

Gorgeous Bangladeshi women shopping for Indian shawls

This is me...in the Haat

Indian shoppers thronging shops selling  readymade clothes and sarees from Bangladesh

Indian shoppers in action

The shops from Bangladesh sell clothes, biscuits, namkeen, dry fish, imported fruits whereas the Indian shops sell shawls, plastic items, cosmetics, cough syrup (yes, the ones with alcohol content). I had the best bhel from a Bangladeshi vendor, crunchy and spicy-very different from the puffed rice based bhel. It's difficult to differentiate between the shops by the look. The people are easy to identify as the population is mostly Muslim and the women from that side wear burkha. I could identify the shops based on brands- sandalina and meril soap from Bangladesh and dove, ponds , dettol, fiama etch. from India. I bought some cookies, they were quite tasty and very cheap.

Reaching there: 

Kamalasagar can be done as a day trip from Agartala. You can hire a car or take public transport which is available at a good frequency.

Public transport:

You have an option to take a state transport bus, shared jeep or Tata Magic.

There are totally three bus stands in Agartala- one to go to north Tripura, one to go to south Tripura and the third for interstate buses. The buses for Kamalasagar go from Nagerjala bus stand, but they ply from outside the bus stand, just under the bridge.  I would suggest to wait a little for the bus if you want to take public transport as the road is very bad and travelling in a jeep or Tata Magic will rattle your bones and the back.

Either of these modes takes about one and a half-hour.

You can also get transport till the T-junction of national highway and Kamalasagar road and take a shared auto from there.

Food: 

There are just 2-3 shops that serve a basic meal. I opted for the govt. run cafeteria for some hygiene. The food is cheap- 80 rupees for a vegetarian meal and 100 for a non vegetarian meal. 

The government cafeteria does not serve breakfast,there's just one shop selling Puri sabji at INR15, but you might carry some dry breakfast if you plan to stay. Even tea shop opens only at 8am, which was a little surprising as the eastern India wakes early, but in this place the day starts around 10am ( I visited in mid December).

A Love Affair with the Himalaya

Thought about writing this many times,  and the best ideas would typically come when I was running in the evening.  And I would forget when I sat to write…  so I am at least starting the process today and noting down my thoughts as they come and compile them later.

During these four odd years of my love affair with the mountains,  I went through all the ups and downs of a typical love affair - the ecstasy,  the longing,  pining,  heart break -  and a lot more. In fact the seeds of this love affair were sown long ago - say 20 years ago.  Every time I went to Himalaya,  I returned looking prettier,  with rosy cheeks -  the color of love.  I didn't realize that time and thought it was just due to healthy weather.  Little did I know what I was getting into.  I would keep turning back to catch one last glimpse before parting…  and this tradition continues even today after two decades.  

And then I lost touch with my love and got on with the flow of life-studies,  job and such other mundane things. During this period I did feel a special attraction towards the mountains - just like when you are hopelessly attracted to that special someone but imagine it to be just an infatuation.

But it is believed that matches are made in heaven,  and I extrapolate it to believe that love itself is made in heaven. Like the famous dialogue from the hindi movie ‘Dil to pagal hai’ - I also used to wonder what happens when you discover that special someone in your life - do the stars shine brighter,  or you hear ringing bells etc.  I was yet to experience the most intense moments of my life.  I was destined to be with the mountains,  so the events in life unfolded in a manner that I was drawn closer to my love.

It was August 2013.  One day out of the blue,  My friend asked me whether I would want to go trekking to Kashmir-the great Lakes.  I liked Kashmir and after seeing the pictures of seven alpine lakes on the website of India hikes,  I was in.  I hadn't trekked much in the recent past,  so religiously followed the preparation schedule - running for 5km in 30 minutes for a month.  And in September,  I went for a week long trek to the Great Lakes.  What a sublime experience - beyond words.  Seven days of grueling walking through the mountains,  sleeping in the tents,  freezing cold and a bunch of extremely warm people. The last day of the trek was a killer on the feet as it was a steep descent of 20 odd km.  But when I reached the end, I felt empty.  Didn't at all feel the sense of accomplishment on completing.  In fact I broke down and cried for half an hour.  Every body around me was puzzled,  I also didn't know what was happening to me.  This was my moment of self discovery - finding my true love… and there were no bells, no guitar - just my loved one and me in the picturesque Kashmir - sounds straight out of a Yash Chopra movie .

So let me try to draw some parallels between a regular affair and mine with the Himalaya.

In initial days of an affair there is usually some amount of trepidation, excitement.

You make special preparations, dress up and want to be your best when going to meet your beloved.

When I look back, my intense preparation for the treks was like getting ready to meet my loved one, and I wanted to be my best.

Then as the relationship matures,  there is more comfort between the two people, you don't need to put up your best face anymore, you can just be yourself with your beloved.

Similarly now when I go to the Himalaya, there is no excitement, butterflies in my stomach, just calmness and pure ecstasy when I am in the arms of the Himalaya.

And then there is separation when situations in life force you to be away from your loved one. The pining, the yearning is intense initially and then you accept this phase and wait for the good times.

There have also been some heartbreaks - not because of my love being unfaithful, but at times when the universe conspired against our plans to meet - I was all set to go to Annapurna Base Camp - one of the most romantic settings to be with your beloved, but destiny had some other plans.. There was a massive earthquake in Nepal in 2015 - just a week before my departure, and the trek had to be canceled…  I felt robbed…  and frantically looked for options to meet my beloved - even if at a different place. True love always overcomes all odds to be together. I also managed to make all arrangements for an alternate trek to Bagini Glacier in Uttarakhand in less than a week, and here I was - deeply satisfied and blushing with my beloved.

Currently mine is also a long distance relationship, I get to see and be with my beloved only a couple of times a year, and the pining continues…. But I am waiting for the day when I will be united with my love, forever…. 

Hanoi - a backpackers paradise

Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam and it is a bustling city with colonial era buildings and many lakes. It has retained traditional Vietnamese culture while keeping up with modern infrastructure development and embracing technology. Being the capital, it is dotted with imposing structures of important government buildings, but they add to the charm of the city. There is an idyllic charm to the place with tree lined roads, very often surrounding lakes. The city is divided into mainly four parts, and the sightseeing places are scattered in each of them:

• Old quarter -mostly around  Hoan Kiem Lake, Thang Long Water Puppet theatre, Ngoc Sun temple, night market    
• French quarter - National Museum of  History, Vietnamese Women's museum, Revolutionary museum, Opera House
• West lake area - Tran Quoc Pagoda, Quan Thanh Temple
• Ba Dinh district - Temple of Literature, Ho Chi Minh Complex, One Pillar Pagoda

It is a good idea to spend around 3 days in Hanoi to be able to see the important museums and experience the local culture. I spent a little above two days in Hanoi and in parts, so had to trade off a few places. 

I was welcomed with Vietnamese coffee on reaching the hotel. I stayed in Hanoi old quarters, which is almost in the centre, close to most of the tourist attractions and gives you a feel of the Vietnamese culture. Since I had reached by noon, I had about half a day to explore Hanoi on the first day. The hotel gave me a map of Hanoi with a list of attractions and important phone numbers. I then walked up to Hoan Kiem lake which is almost the centre of Hanoi. 

Hanoi city seen from Hoan Kiem Lake

Thang Long Water puppet theatre, Ngoc Sun temple and  Ly Thai To temple are around the Hoan Kiem Lake. The lake itself has a historical importance and is quite large. This area is free of vehicles on weekends. On Saturday evening, there was a carnival like feel around the lake, with games, live performances and street food. 

Street games in the Hoan Kiem area on a weekend

The Ngoc Sun temple is located on one end of the lake and you cross a bridge to reach it. This scarlet coloured bridge look stunning at night with the lights.

Scarlet bridge to the Ngoc Sun temple at night

Later in the evening, you can see an hour-long water puppet show in the Thang Long water puppet theatre. This is quite a unique show with traditional musical instruments being used and should not be missed.

The water puppets in action at Thang Long theatre

Traditional musical instruments of Vietnam

After these places, I went to Cafe Pho Co with fantastic views of the Lake. I sat there sipping and spent rest of the evening in the night market of Hanoi, located in Hang Dao area which starts as you step out of the circle around Hoan Kiem lake and runs north south across old quarter. I was not interested in shopping, so wandered aimlessly looking at the variety of merchandise, local food stalls etc. There is also a dedicated street food area – where interesting pot meals are served – you are given a small stove on the table along with the choice of meat, noodles / rice and vegetables. 

The Food Street in Night Market, Hanoi

There were live street performances with dance and singing which I enjoyed. And the best part – the entry of vehicles is banned in the night market, so you can explore it on foot at your own pace 

Live singing and dancing on the street in Night Market, Hanoi

The next day I visited the Temple of literature, Imperial Citadel and the Museum of Vietnam Military History. I was particularly impressed with the Military History Museum where the aircrafts, guns, tanks etc. seized from the enemy during various Vietnam wars have been proudly displayed. There is a unique recognition in Vietnam for women who fought in the war as well as women who sacrificed their men folk - Vietnamese heroic mothers, and there’s an interesting caption that goes with this section of the museum – “ When you drink water, think of the source”.

Statue of Confucius in Temple of Literature

Traditional musical instrument

The Imperial Citadel

Underground bunkers for hiding during the war

Recreating the war era in the museum in Imperial Citadel

Recreating the war era in the museum in Imperial Citadel

The Flag tower - centre of  Hanoi

Aircrafts and fighter jets used in Vietnam war on display in Military History museum

Debris of aircrafts and jets of enemy gunned down by Vietnamese army

Another proud display of a MIG used in Vietnam war

I could not visit the famous Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum as it was a weekend and the queue was hours long… I only saw the mausoleum from outside. 

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

You need 3 – 4 days in Hanoi to explore it well. I had to forego some of the interesting museums like Museum of Ethnolgoy, Vietnam museum of Revolution, Women’s museum and the National Museum of History. Many of these museums are closed on a Monday, so plan accordingly.

After the visiting hours of museums were over, I took a scooter taxi to Long Bien bridge – a long bridge over the Red river. This has a train track and was used earlier, but is only open for two wheelers and pedestrians now. This bridge was destroyed in the American war and has been resurrected. 

My scooter taxi driver by the side of Long Bien bridge

Long Bien bridge is a lovely bridge across Red river

After returning to the hotel from Long Bien bridge, I walked towards French quarter to have my dinner at Truc Lam Trai. Enroute I visited the Hoa Lo prison, St. Joseph's Cathedral and the Opera House. 

St. Joseph's Cathedral - night mass

Opera House, Hanoi

Next day I went on a cruise to Halong Bay, and again spent an evening in Hanoi on returning from Halong. As I wandered in the streets of old quarter searching for some interesting food, I accidentally came across the night life district of Hanoi – Ta Hien and Luong Ngoc Quyen in Hanoi's Old Quarter. The streets were closed for vehicles and were jam packed with youngsters. There were a lot of interesting pubs there, but I was in a rush for my night bus to Sapa, so just glanced through.

The beer street in Hanoi

On my return from Hoi An, I had half a day again in Hanoi, when I stayed in West Lake area. I stayed in the Tay Ho District near the west Lake this time, and got the real flavor of Hanoi - this part is not too full of tourists, so you have the opportunity to observe the daily life of locals. Most youngsters dine out in the evening, like China. And as I passed streets lined with eateries, the owners called out people from the road - quintessential Asia…

I went to see the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum complex with One pillar pagoda and the Tran quoc Pagoda. Being a Monday the museum inside the Ho Chi Minh compelx was closed. Walking near the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum you get a feeling like walking on Raj path in New Delhi - surrounded by government offices, buildings, the president residence etc. 

Tran Quoc Pagoda at sunset

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum in the evening

I ended my Vietnam trip with a vegetarian dinner near the West Lake. The restaurant was a Buddhist one with chants being played in the background, which left me in a quiet and meditative mood before I left this beautiful country.