Hanoi - a backpackers paradise

Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam and it is a bustling city with colonial era buildings and many lakes. It has retained traditional Vietnamese culture while keeping up with modern infrastructure development and embracing technology. Being the capital, it is dotted with imposing structures of important government buildings, but they add to the charm of the city. There is an idyllic charm to the place with tree lined roads, very often surrounding lakes. The city is divided into mainly four parts, and the sightseeing places are scattered in each of them:

• Old quarter -mostly around  Hoan Kiem Lake, Thang Long Water Puppet theatre, Ngoc Sun temple, night market    
• French quarter - National Museum of  History, Vietnamese Women's museum, Revolutionary museum, Opera House
• West lake area - Tran Quoc Pagoda, Quan Thanh Temple
• Ba Dinh district - Temple of Literature, Ho Chi Minh Complex, One Pillar Pagoda

It is a good idea to spend around 3 days in Hanoi to be able to see the important museums and experience the local culture. I spent a little above two days in Hanoi and in parts, so had to trade off a few places. 

I was welcomed with Vietnamese coffee on reaching the hotel. I stayed in Hanoi old quarters, which is almost in the centre, close to most of the tourist attractions and gives you a feel of the Vietnamese culture. Since I had reached by noon, I had about half a day to explore Hanoi on the first day. The hotel gave me a map of Hanoi with a list of attractions and important phone numbers. I then walked up to Hoan Kiem lake which is almost the centre of Hanoi. 

Hanoi city seen from Hoan Kiem Lake

Thang Long Water puppet theatre, Ngoc Sun temple and  Ly Thai To temple are around the Hoan Kiem Lake. The lake itself has a historical importance and is quite large. This area is free of vehicles on weekends. On Saturday evening, there was a carnival like feel around the lake, with games, live performances and street food. 

Street games in the Hoan Kiem area on a weekend

The Ngoc Sun temple is located on one end of the lake and you cross a bridge to reach it. This scarlet coloured bridge look stunning at night with the lights.

Scarlet bridge to the Ngoc Sun temple at night

Later in the evening, you can see an hour-long water puppet show in the Thang Long water puppet theatre. This is quite a unique show with traditional musical instruments being used and should not be missed.

The water puppets in action at Thang Long theatre

Traditional musical instruments of Vietnam

After these places, I went to Cafe Pho Co with fantastic views of the Lake. I sat there sipping and spent rest of the evening in the night market of Hanoi, located in Hang Dao area which starts as you step out of the circle around Hoan Kiem lake and runs north south across old quarter. I was not interested in shopping, so wandered aimlessly looking at the variety of merchandise, local food stalls etc. There is also a dedicated street food area – where interesting pot meals are served – you are given a small stove on the table along with the choice of meat, noodles / rice and vegetables. 

The Food Street in Night Market, Hanoi

There were live street performances with dance and singing which I enjoyed. And the best part – the entry of vehicles is banned in the night market, so you can explore it on foot at your own pace 

Live singing and dancing on the street in Night Market, Hanoi

The next day I visited the Temple of literature, Imperial Citadel and the Museum of Vietnam Military History. I was particularly impressed with the Military History Museum where the aircrafts, guns, tanks etc. seized from the enemy during various Vietnam wars have been proudly displayed. There is a unique recognition in Vietnam for women who fought in the war as well as women who sacrificed their men folk - Vietnamese heroic mothers, and there’s an interesting caption that goes with this section of the museum – “ When you drink water, think of the source”.

Statue of Confucius in Temple of Literature

Traditional musical instrument

The Imperial Citadel

Underground bunkers for hiding during the war

Recreating the war era in the museum in Imperial Citadel

Recreating the war era in the museum in Imperial Citadel

The Flag tower - centre of  Hanoi

Aircrafts and fighter jets used in Vietnam war on display in Military History museum

Debris of aircrafts and jets of enemy gunned down by Vietnamese army

Another proud display of a MIG used in Vietnam war

I could not visit the famous Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum as it was a weekend and the queue was hours long… I only saw the mausoleum from outside. 

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

You need 3 – 4 days in Hanoi to explore it well. I had to forego some of the interesting museums like Museum of Ethnolgoy, Vietnam museum of Revolution, Women’s museum and the National Museum of History. Many of these museums are closed on a Monday, so plan accordingly.

After the visiting hours of museums were over, I took a scooter taxi to Long Bien bridge – a long bridge over the Red river. This has a train track and was used earlier, but is only open for two wheelers and pedestrians now. This bridge was destroyed in the American war and has been resurrected. 

My scooter taxi driver by the side of Long Bien bridge

Long Bien bridge is a lovely bridge across Red river

After returning to the hotel from Long Bien bridge, I walked towards French quarter to have my dinner at Truc Lam Trai. Enroute I visited the Hoa Lo prison, St. Joseph's Cathedral and the Opera House. 

St. Joseph's Cathedral - night mass

Opera House, Hanoi

Next day I went on a cruise to Halong Bay, and again spent an evening in Hanoi on returning from Halong. As I wandered in the streets of old quarter searching for some interesting food, I accidentally came across the night life district of Hanoi – Ta Hien and Luong Ngoc Quyen in Hanoi's Old Quarter. The streets were closed for vehicles and were jam packed with youngsters. There were a lot of interesting pubs there, but I was in a rush for my night bus to Sapa, so just glanced through.

The beer street in Hanoi

On my return from Hoi An, I had half a day again in Hanoi, when I stayed in West Lake area. I stayed in the Tay Ho District near the west Lake this time, and got the real flavor of Hanoi - this part is not too full of tourists, so you have the opportunity to observe the daily life of locals. Most youngsters dine out in the evening, like China. And as I passed streets lined with eateries, the owners called out people from the road - quintessential Asia…

I went to see the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum complex with One pillar pagoda and the Tran quoc Pagoda. Being a Monday the museum inside the Ho Chi Minh compelx was closed. Walking near the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum you get a feeling like walking on Raj path in New Delhi - surrounded by government offices, buildings, the president residence etc. 

Tran Quoc Pagoda at sunset

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum in the evening

I ended my Vietnam trip with a vegetarian dinner near the West Lake. The restaurant was a Buddhist one with chants being played in the background, which left me in a quiet and meditative mood before I left this beautiful country.