Feet with wings : An autumn trek to Rupin Pass

The three waterfalls of Rupin from the Dhanteras Thatch campsite

Rupin Trek is one of the coveted treks among the trekkers. Most accounts and pictures of this trek are from the summer –end of May to beginning of June, with a steep and many times technical climb through the snow filled gully to Rupin pass. The September – October season is less popular because it is quite dry – there is neither much flora-fauna to see nor the glamour of snow…. But I found a rustic charm in this season of the trek. Although you will not see rainbow colours, the palette of pink and brown landscape will more than make up for it. I went for this trek in the 2^nd week of October. This trek starts from Dhaula in Uttarakhand and soon enters Himachal Pradesh after Sewa. It finally ends in the Kinnaur region of Himachal Pradesh.

Day 0 - Reaching Dhaula - 5200 ft.

Dhaula – a remote village in Uttarakhand is the base camp for the trek to Rupin pass. My journey to Dhaula started with a sitathon - sitting first in a flight and then in a car/Jeep to Dehradun and from there - till we reached Dhaula after almost 24 hours of leaving our respective cities. The journey sure tests your patience, but anything to be in the Himalaya :) The road trip to Dehradun was far from enjoyable because of heavy traffic within Delhi and on the way to Dehradun. If you plan well in advance, opt for an overnight train from Delhi to Dehradun – Nanda Devi express at 11 pm is a good choice. The drive from Dehradun to Dhaula takes you away from the city madness, into the remoteness of the hill towns. From Dehradun you mostly follow the river Yamuna till Naugaon, but if you go via Mussoorie, you join the river only after you join the road coming from Vikasnagar after leaving Kempty falls behind. From Naugaon, you cross the river and follow one of its tributaries till Suranukiseri, which turns eastward. As you continue the drive, you meet Tonsa - another tributary of Yamuna when you reach the Mori - Sankri road. You will drive with river Tonsa on your left till Netwar, and from here, you take a left turn to go to Dhaula, whereas river Tonsa continues towards Sankri. Now you start following Rupin river, which you will for rest of the trek..

The last 10 km road to Dhaula was extremely bumpy - I thought I had better walked it up….

Dhaula is a small village with just 3-4 houses which double up as homestay for trekkers. So do not expect much facility at this base camp - basic lodging and food, be prepared to bathe in the river, if the water line does not function….But this tiny hamlet has a lot more to offer in terms of views.

Village Dhaula - some houses seen from our guest house

Locals collecting dry grass for cattle feed during winter

We discovered this Jacuzzi like waterfall at a Bollywood like location

Rupin river near Dhaula - the location being Bollywood like - definitely need to pose !!

Day 1 - Dhaula (5200 ft.) to Kaligar (6500 ft.) - 12 km

We started from Dhaula at 7:30 am.

As you step out of Dhaula, you can see the Rupin river flowing on your right

It is mostly a flat walk for the initial 4-5 km alongside river Rupin . And then suddenly the trail starts ascending. It is a steep ascent but not too difficult. The ascent ends at Sewa. Sewa is a really picturesque village situated amongst mountains and has step cultivation of amaranthus, kidney bean, paddy and lots of vegetables. The red of amaranthus is almost blood red in color and it shines against the green backdrop.

Sewa village - quaint little houses

A postcard village - all colours in the same frame

The flame of red amaranthus - will add some colour to my tired face as well !

Red bushes, green grass, blue sky and violet mountains - nature has so many rainbows

There is a pretty little temple which has a Buddhist structure but is a Hindu temple, I was told by the local guide. An interesting fact about this temple is that there were numerous trophies and shields displayed on its top and walls. It is a tradition to display any trophies won in matches on that temple - a true example of community living.

The temple at Sewa

After having packed lunch there, we waited for the porters to come before leaving, but by then it started raining. We waited for a few minutes hoping that it would just be a passing cloud, but the sunny day became slightly overcast, so we thought it would be better to leave for the camp. The camp for the day was 2km from sewa Temple, at Kaligar. We trekked in rain, and in a few minutes of reaching the camp it started raining heavily. The days total trek was about 10km as per my pedometer, although we were told it is 12 km. It was an easy trek through villages with only about an hour of climbing up. We camped next to Rupin River in a small isolated patch.

Day 2 - Trek from Kaligar (6500 ft.) to Jakha (9075 ft.) - 15 km

This day's trek is a bit strenuous and boring, as it is a tad long - 15 km. The initial 8 km till Bauta village(6700 ft.) is on a motorable road, and can be avoided if you start the trek from Gosangu. You will need to travel to Sangla from Shimla and then further to Gosangu from Sangla. The road journey becomes longer in this case and the trek days reduce by one day. From Gosangu it is a steep ascent of almost 800 mts. / 2500 ft. upto Jakha.

The trek on motorable road till Bauta village, some turns are simply awe inspiring

all through the motorable road, on your right is such lovely sight

A waterfall enroute Batua

As you look back on the path you came, this scenery pops out of a postcard

Our trek leader - Mushibhai

This turn on a rough road is too beautiful

The famous marathon couple - Babita and Lakshindra with Mushibhai

Amaranth flowers dot the green hill side - creating interesting patterns

Uphill from the river - to Jakha - with our handsome porter

On the way you cross the village Jiskun where there are one or two shops selling refreshments, snacks and other petty items that you might require.

Jakha is a pretty village with even prettier houses. It is surprising to see paved path all the way till Jakha, but these facilities exist due to the presence of Radhaswami Satsang Ashram in many of these villages. Most houses have apple trees in their garden and put apple slices, pumpkin, Rajma and Huglu on the roof for drying. This is a cheap and effective method of freeze drying – since the temperatures barely go above 10 – 15 degrees even in day during this period, the food items can be preserved for long. These are then used during the harsh winters.

The roofs made of mica sheets - spot some apple slices being dried

Pumpkin climber - to dry the ripe pumpkin

Guest house next to ours - they treated us to the apples from the tree

Yes, we got to eat these tempting red, juicy apples - straight from the tree

Our guest house at Jakha - a lovely pink colour

Sunset from my vantage position - the best form of meditation for me

People commonly cultivate Rajma (kidney beans) and a millet called Huglu (buckwheat). They make flour of its seeds and make a dish called Kultu of it. As I wandered around the village in the evening, I witnessed a very rhythmic process of separating the kidney beans from the chaff - people beat the bulk of the dried plant with long sticks while going around in circles. It looks like some dance form. Unfortunately I was so engrossed in watching them that I forgot to pull my camera out :(

Jakha (9075 ft.) to Dhanrashi (Dhanteras thatch) (11700 ft.) via Udaknal - 12 km

Started from Jakha at 7:15 am. The sun was not fully up, so the sky had different colours with a silhoutte.

Early morning light renders interesting colours to the landscape

Sunrays filtering through the mountains

The Silhouette

The initial climb is for about 30-45 minutes, and then almost a flat walk through meadows. The path is truly breathtaking, with Apple orchards, small agricultural patches along with Rupin River on the right side and mountains surrounding. We could not resist the urge to steal a few apples form an apple orchard.

The path through the apple orchards and agricultural patches

Walk in the woods

The path through the woods is long, winding but not lonely......

Pretty flowers or leaves - These are bryophytes in the shape of a flower

The meadows - as far as your eyes can see

The small patches of agricultural land on the hills - you can see amaranth growing

I can keep walking if the paths promise to be like this

There's also a pine forest walk for about 15-20 minutes, after which you descend all the way down to the river.

The pine forest

Through the thick pines

We took a short break here with some photography sessions.

One of my best pictures - my personal favourite -
picture taken by Babita - an ace portrait photographer

Mushibhai and Lakshindra - intently watching the modelling show

Forever ready to pose for camera

A model scientist - my best friend

The lovely blue sky with a little green and brown - only to enhance the rich hue

You cross the river here and now it will be on your left. From here, the trail gently ascends to reach Udaknal at 10100 feet. There's a waterfall just below the camp. India hikes has a permanent camp here. It is a lovely camp site, nestled between mountains. We took another break here and had some tea with a local herbs called Chora, which keeps the body warm.

View from Udaknal campsite

Indiahikes camp - our team is sharing a cuppa tea

This one is a five star resort at 11000 feet!!

The waterfall just below Udaknal campsite

The trail further is also a gradual ascent going through Buras Kandi, a forest of rhododendrons. We again went shutter crazy in this patch.

A shepherd's hut in Buraskandi - all trekking bags resting for a while , as we are busy taking pictures :P

They shy hero of our trek - posing for Babita

While we take pictures, the two other men get busy with smoking - so much in sync for Bidi !!

I just love this one - gorgeous Babita clicking two handsome men

And then again there is a flat patch around Suruwas thatch (10560 t.). The river flows by your side beside you and you walk on the moraine of river.

The flat patch of Suruwas thatch - full of moraines

The flat patch made interesting by the large rocks and the hollow of the tree

Tall mountains - so huge , it is difficult to even capture them entirely on camera

A riot of colours even on rocks

A thin stream of river is on your left as you walk

We took lunch break at Suruwas thatch and continued to walk. After flat walk for 15 minutes, you start to ascend towards Dhanteras thatch. This part of the trail is a bit tricky as it is over the rocks and there's hardly any trail visible

My companions - rucksack and the hiking pole - rest while I have lunch

Walking besides the river - on moraines - you can see us circled in black

The hair like lines on the left are the trails !!

You trek for about half an hour to reach flat meadows, the Bugyal. All three waterfalls are visible from here - lower, middle and upper. After Buras Kandi you come across many magnificent waterfalls today, but these three are sheer majesty.

The first view of the three waterfalls - lower, middle and upper

When the backdrop is so magnificent, I have to pose, even though I look tired sick

A panorama of the natural amphitheatre

The camp is about 15-20 minutes walk from the Bugyal. We reached at 2:45. After some piping hot Indian style pasta made by the trek cook, we were refreshed again. This campsite is in a U shaped valley surrounded by mountains on all sides and lower, middle and upper waterfalls as a constant backdrop. The sky was clear today and as the sun set gradually the colours changed to light pink and deep red in the end. Time for some priceless photographs…..

The constant backdrop at the Lower Waterfall campsite - the U shaped valley is so clear

The sun plays hide and seed with the clouds - adding drama to the landscape

The setting sun casts a pink spell over the brown mountains and blue sky - a rainbow of sorts

Lights, camera, action!!

It was also very cold and windy, so we collected twigs and dried plants for firewood so that we could have a small campfire at night. After some star gazing, I called it a day.

Dhanrashi (11700 ft. ) to Rata Pheri (14200 ft. ) - 6 km

The night was really cold, and we woke up to frozen stream and small icicles on the grass.

The little streams froze due to sub-zero temperature in the night

I just love these designs formed by ice crystals on small frozen puddles

We started leisurely at 8:45 today as we were informed that today's trek is only 3-4 hours. But that is not true. In fact this day’s trek is relatively tougher as it is a steep climb over three waterfalls and beyond.

At the top of lower waterfall

You cross the waterfalls as you move up, and it is a trek over rocks all through. At places, there is some ice on the rocks, making it extremely slippery. We had to sprinkle mud over the ice to avoid slipping on the hard ice.

Sprinkling mud over hard ice on rocks - one step at a time

There's hardly any trail, at best just wide enough for one foot. Most people camp at upper waterfall, but this being a dry season, we decided to go upto Rata Pheri.

The trail (so called) through which you will reach upper waterfall

As you stop and look around, you see such paintings by the master himself

The Upper Waterfall - the thought of camping over this seems exciting

The trail from upper waterfall to Rata pheri is not too steep, but a bit long and tiring. There are some ghost stories associated with this camp site, and when you reach there, you are not surprised. The camp site at Rata Pheri is dry, above the tree line, so all you see is brown rocks overlooking the Rupin Valley. It is extremely cold and looks like an advanced base camp of a peak ascent. From here you can see the gully which will take you to Rupin pass.

Reaching the campsite at Rata Pheri - a rough patch

Our tents add some colour to the otherwise monochrome landscape

The bright kitchen tent infuses life into this dry, barren campsite with lofty mountains all around

First view of Rupin pass - circled in black

Even in October, the temperature dipped to - 7, - 8 degrees. It's a good idea to carry a lot of extra warm clothing for Rupin pass trek, as it is comparatively colder than treks at similar altitude in the same season. There is no firewood available as the camp is well above tree line. So carry some wood if you can from the lower camps. This campsite being very windy and cold, it was very difficult to wander around, so we either sat behind the tent to shield ourselves from the wind, or chatted with the support staff in the tent.

Rata Pheri (14200 ft.)to Rupin Pass (15250 ft.) and descend to Sangla Kanda (11880 ft.) via Ronti Gad (13000 ft.)- 13km

All of us spent another sleepless night in a row due to the cold. The temperature had dipped to around -8, -10 degrees in the night. But we woke up early to make it to the pass around sunrise.

The subzero temperature ensured that we don't sleep and wake up to a frosty campsite

You just start walking further to the mountains and your destination is right in front of you.

The destination route is clear in front of your as you start

After about 1 km of flat walk on moraines, you gradually start ascending on small rocks, and 15 – 20 minutes later you reach the base of the gully. Now all you see in front of you is rocks piled up in a huge heap going all the way upto Rupin pass.

The day's trek starts - literally "on the rocks"

The daunting destination in front of you - a steep climb of 80 degrees

The rocks are not very stable and are quite loose so everytime you step on a rock, be prepared to lose your balance. There are no pictures of the way up the gully, as it was not possible to handle the camera while balancing on the loose rocks and continuing to climb with large steps.

Today is the real test of your lungs as you need to climb really fast up the steep gully at an altitude of 14000 ft. and an inclination of almost 80 degrees!! It takes about 30 minutes to reach the top. So after leaving the camp, you will be on the Rupin pass I about 90 minutes, even if you don’t go very fast.

Finally - on the Rupin pass

When you peer down from here you realize that you climbed almost vertical !

The trek guide offering customary Pooja at the top of Rupin pass

It was extremely windy and cold, so I had a swollen face (visible in photos) due to inflamed sinus.

In front of the cairns made by previous trekkers

The complete team - the trek guide, trek leader, three of us and the support staff

But when you reach the top, nothing comes to your mind. You are treated to a 360 degree view of mountains of the Dhauladhar range.

The sharp, clear snow mountain, unfortunately the guide did not know the name

When you climb up the Rupin pass, you see these on your ight

And this is to your left

Far left view

Some more view on your left

After spending about half an hour on the top taking pictures and some refreshment, we started the descent. It was very windy throughout, so we kept a good pace to reach Ronti gad. We took a lunch break here near the Indiahikes campsite, but this was also a very windy campsite, so we decided to trek further to a less colder place, as we desperately wanted to sleep in a warmer tent today after two sleepless nights.

The campsite at Ronti Gad - the yaks grazed freely as we had our lunch here

After lunch the trudge continued till Sangla Kanda. The descent is steep at many places, and is quite long , but reminded of the meadows in the Great lakes trek. Although the trek is tiring, the views are to die for, I continued to click pictures awestruck, even though I was running a high fever and a really bad cold. That is why I always say that mountains heal....

All through during the descent, you walk besides the river

You are a witness to such paintings and more

The colours and pattern on the mountains are a soothing balm to the tired body and mind

Some more brushstrokes from the master painter

I loved the design created by green moss / algae on the rocks

We managed to reach the camp at Sangla Kanda only at 3:30 pm – a trek of about 8 hours today. Sangla Kanda is a small village, which was not inhabited in October, otherwise it is a bustling village of about 50 odd houses, a Panchayat, a few shops and a veterinary hospital. For now we only had the empty streets and the cattle for our company.

Sangla Kanda - a village straight out of a picture postcard

Strong winds threaten to blow away our kitchen tent - its bright red, orange colour in a sharp contrast to the green trees and the blue sky

It was a beautiful starlit night and we had plenty of wood for campfire – finally we were warm before snuggling into our sleeping bags.

Sangla Kanda (11880 ft.) to Sangla (8900 ft.) – 7 km trek and Sangla to Shimla (7 hours drive)

Finally, the trek has to end now. Today we finally descend to Sangla from where we have to drive to Shimla. We started early so that we can reach Sangla early enough to reach Shimla before night. Today’s trek is through village pathways mostly where you will pass by apple and peach orchards, river on your right and some village houses.

The returning Path

The path becomes more dusty and with more trees

Kinnaur Apples in an apple orchard - we stole a few of these !

You will also meet pilgrims going to Kinnar Kailash. The apples you find on this stretch are really big and are known as the Kinnaur apples – one of the superior varieties because of the high altitude and dry season when they are harvested. These are dark red in colour and really solid – you can actually hit someone with an apple from the orchard !!

Sangla is quite a large village – it actually appears like a town with a busy market and all types of connectivity at your hand. The influence of Buddhism can be seen in the form of large prayer wheels on the road.